The Story of Al Mahdi

(Photos, top to bottom:  entering grotto Ngor;  image of Issa Sedinya;  grotto opens to the sea;  returning into the cave;  mark of Allah on ceiling of the cave)

Senegalese culture has great depth, as is illustrated in the following story.  Note that all source material/quotes were drawn from http://layene.free.fr.

On the 4th of May, 1883, a forty year old Lebu man from the village of Yoff (located on the north end of the Cape Vert Peninsula, just north of Dakar) declared himself to be the Madhi, the reincarnation of the Prophet Mohammed (PBUH -- Peace Be Upon Him).  To one of his two wives he declared:  "O you caste Fatima, be patient.  God has given you a husband never given to other women.  Know that your former partner Limamu is different, because God has done what he wanted.  By his Will, He asked me to guide men and jinn to Him."

The Madhi refers to "a man of the family of the Prophet who will come at the end of time, and fill the earth with justice and equity."  It is cited in the Koran.

As you might imagine, the declaration of oneself as the Madhi attracts controversy and debate.  The Saudis might not be too keen on the Madhi arising in primitive West Africa.

Sedinya Limamu wandered "in the alleys and squares, as a pilgrim, calling aloud to his fellow citizens, 'Answer the call of God, come to me, I am the messenger of God, I am the Madhi whom was expected.' "

At first, he was perceived by many as having gone off the deep end, mentally ill.  The sudden change in behavior, which immediately followed the death of his mother, was suspect and ridiculed.  

But Sedinya Limamu was insistent.  "Oh my brothers, oh my sisters," he said, "I am a boon for you that God offers you my advise:  Obey the Commandments of God;  imitate the behavior, action, and model that I am.  God has placed in me the soul of Mohammed.  The black color of my skin must not induce doubt.  My white skin in Mecca is blackened today."

As his reputation as a Holy Man spread, so did the number of conversions and disciples.  He condemned traditional animistic practices (the cult of Rab) and, miraculously, was able to heal by his hands (termed gifted Magnetics by a French magistrate) those who were unable to be cured by traditional practices.  

There are many such miraculous acts attributed to Sedinya Limamu.  As a result, Yoff experienced a large influx of curious followers, eager to see and hear the Holy Master.

Sedinya Limamu died on November 2nd, 1909.  His son presided over the funeral prayers in the presence of a large gathering.  The Madhi was buried in Diamalaye, by the sea, a place where he liked to come to pray.  An elaborate mausoleum today marks the grave.

Chief amongst the many legacies left by the Madhi is the founding of the Layene Brotherhood, one of the four prominent Sufi Brotherhoods in Senegal. It is centered in the Lebu communities of the Cape Verde Peninsula.  The Layene is the smallest of the groups, represented by only about 1% of the population of Senegal.  (The other Brotherhoods include the Qadiri, the Tijani, and the Mouride, founded by Amadou Bamba.)

The reason I refer to this story of Sedinya Limamu is in its relevance to the present-day community of Almadies, a neighborhood where many expats and ISD teachers reside.  Almadies derives from the arabic Al Madhi, the Chosen One, the reincarnated Prophet.  

Interestingly, few seem to be aware of this rich story.  It particularly speaks to the depth and layering of Senegalese culture and history. 

In the heart of the Almadies, not far from the former Club Med and the very upscale Meridian Hotel, there is along the ocean side of the coast road a white wall painted across its length with multiple images of a mysterious-looking fellow, whom I now know to be Sedinya Limamu's son, Issa Sedinya, who arose as a Holy Man in his own right.  (One of the miraculous stories attributed to Sedinya is that his image could not be captured in photographs.)

Randi and I walked through this area a few weeks ago, recognized it as a sanctuary, and were curious about it's significance.  

This sanctuary is one of the holiest sites for the Layene.  It is a vertical cave, into which one descends by a ladder, into a grotto, with immediate access to the sea.  The Layene website, cited above, has this to say about the grotto of Ngor:  "His light stayed here for 1000 years.  Each night that light traveled the world to see on what land and with what people it would launch the appeal of the Madhi.  The cave is now visited by thousands of faithful who come from all over the world.  During the ceremonies of the call, the Layene community organizes a pilgrimage with prayer and remembrance."

Randi and I visited the grotto yesterday afternoon with a family of one of my 6th grade students.  The father is very interested in history, and is French fluent, and proficient in Wolof. Their Senegalese  house guard also came along, so we were able to make a personal contact with the caretaker of the sanctuary, who allowed us to enter, with cameras.

I spoke with the caretaker (through two translators, English to French, French to Wolof), and explained that I was a teacher, that my students tended to live in protected cultural bubbles, and that we would be doing a history of the Lebu.  The caretaker explained that an old man who hung out at the sanctuary would be the person to talk to about the history, that we could come anytime to speak with him.  The caretaker offered his cell number.

We are surrounded by a cultural, spiritual/religious, and historical depth here, unlike anything I've experienced.  It is an oral tradition, and continues as such.  How easy it is to float on the surface, engrossed in our lives, and miss it all.