Tour de Senegal/Casamance: Audience With the King of Oussouye

Knowing of my interest in the mystical, animistic side of West Africa, our driver Samba contacted a friend, Pierre, who explained that we might be able to sit-in on a ceremony being conducted by the so-called animistic King of Oussouye, pronounced Oos-you, in the neighboring town of the same name.

Talk to anyone about animism and magic in Senegal, and they'll likely point you toward the Casamance. As a Senegalese friend from school mentioned, you'll find some powerful Djola Men in deep Casamance. Oussouye is considered deep Casamance. The possibility of an audience with the King would clearly be an opportunity not to be passed up.

Sibiloumbaye Diédhiou, the King of Oussouye, referred to as Mane, continues a sacred tradition in Diola culture. He is a religious leader, symbolizing unity and social cohesion. Since his consecration in January 2000, the present King of Oussouye is always dressed in red and carries a scepter of straw. The King's birthday, lasting 15 days, is celebrated at the end of September. It is a traditional festival of peace and communion which includes organized dances, prayers, and tradition Senegalise wrestling. For other media, including video, see Witness1, Witnes2, Wrestlers' March, Animistic King, Oussouye.org, Lonely Planet.

Confirmation of our participation would come by telephone the next morning, and when the call came we jumped.

We twice met with the King this day, once accompanied by an assistant, who responded to our questions for a few minutes, the again later in the afternoon with a group of elders for an extended period. It was a fascinating exchange, particularly in the afternoon, too detailed and personal to be related completely herein.

My understanding is this: The King of Oussouye is the intermediary between the bois sacre, the sacred wood, often a tree, and the individual seeker/petitioner. The bois sacre is conceived as a kind of direct conduit to God, like an antenna, whether for an individual, a family, or an entire community. The bois sacre represents the both the altar and the holy of holies, and in making a request of it one is entering into a binding contract both with God and the place of the bois sacre, typically sealed and renewed with the offering of palm wine. It is not a contract to default on, for the power and influence of the bois sacre, while tied to a specific place, readily exacts its toll, including death, regardless of distance. The contract is taken very seriously; it is at the heart of animism in West Africa. Throughout this trip, we visited bois sacre both in Casamance and the the Kedougou region.