Tour de Senegal/Niokolo Koba: Arrival

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We spent only two days in Niokolo Koba National Park, in part due to general weariness from two intense weeks of travel, and because with the required park guide we were carrying five in our vehicle, with three of us uncomfortably wedged in the back seat.

A. became our park guide, and even lodged in Campement de Lion with us in a hut beside ours. He grew up in the local village, and possessed an uncanny ability to pick out game, which might otherwise remain hidden from our view. I was intrigued with Ansu's gentle manner, and quiet, patient eyes, which clearly could see through trees. With him we observed baboons, wart hogs, antelope, jackel, and birds galore. He pointed out the tracks of buffalo, leopard, hippo, and crocodiles.

A. spoke candidly of the politics associated with the park -- the lack of funding and corrupt management. Still, in recent years, the problem of poaching has been all but stopped, with a proactive security policy. According to A., the animals are on the rebound.

Niokolo Koba is a national treasure, and deserves to be treated as such. In a way, it's more a park for animals than visitors, with access tightly restricted and regulated, always in the company of a designated park guide. By example, driving after 6 PM is forbidden. I asked if I could swim across a croc-free section of the river to explore the opposite bank. A. said no, it was not possible without a guide, and he could not swim.

We learned this about visiting Niokolo Koba: bring a 4-wheel drive, go directly to Simenti, stay at Campement de Lion, do the games drives, but don't miss the 90 minute Gambe River boat tour, which offers close-up views of hippos and crocs. As A. explained, you don't need to work hard to see monkeys and baboons, they will come to you in the campement.

The Simenti Hotel may have nice accommodations, but the campement is more our style, relaxed and informal, more like camping out with furniture.

A. has offered to guide us by trail into the range of a group of chimpanzees on a future visit. This is a must opportunity for our spring vacation in late March.

Photos (top to bottom): photos 1&2: troops of baboons, taken en route from Mako to the park entrance in Dar Salam; photos 3, 7&8: along the Gambe River, which runs alongside each of the lodges in the park; photos 4&5: monkeys in the campement; photo7: accommodations in Campement de Lion; photo 9: Almamy in candlelight in the campement.

For video, see clip1.