Bait

It's Ramadan, the Islamic holy month of fasting, when Muslims refrain from eating, drinking, smoking, or indulging in anything that is in excess or ill-natured from dawn to sunset (from Wiki), the aim being to draw one's heart closer to God. The end of the fast is marked by the holiday of Korite, which takes place the morning after the sighting of the new moon. Fathers and sons go to the mosque to pray, then have a light meal of millet cereal with milk. A larger meal is served at midday, and in the afternoon people visit with friends and neighbors (from Holiday).

The month of Ramadan is a period of increased tension, particularly in the late afternoon, as motorists hurry home to break their fast. Serious traffic accidents are much more common during this time of year.

Crime is also up, a little, as people feel the need to prepare for Korite. This is particularly true along the Cornisch, the main north-south coastal road frequented by toubabs and expats, and the route I walk to school. That I'm predictable, following the Cornisch twice a day, with my over-the-shoulder satchel, makes me a target -- bait.

I've been pondering this while on my thirty-minute walk: How do I respond should I be confronted?

I've considered carrying a can of yellow spray paint. While I may lose my bag, I imagine coating the thieves with an easily identifiable layer of day-glow enamel paint. Clever, but perhaps too testosterone and fantasy-driven. Isn't it better to give it all up and step away. I can replace the laptop.

Dakar is a relatively safe place. Teranga -- hospitality -- is, in my experience, a reality. Crime is minimal, taking place almost entirely in the evening, and limited to petty theft. Still, there is a potential for violence, however slight.

As point of reference, there have been 19 homicides by shooting in Salinas, California thus far this year.

Whether by imagination, or accurate intuition, my little walk along the coast to/from school has changed, at least through Korite, two weeks away. The presence of gendarmerie cruising the Cornisch suggests that something is up.