Sunday, March 14, 2010

Gamou in Thies of the Qadiriyyah Cherif Cheikh Nehma Aidara

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I was fortunate to have been invited by G. to accompany he and two of his sons to the annual gamou (celebration) of Chiekh Nehma Aidara, a prominent spiritual leader in the Qadiriyyah Brotherhood, at his home in Thies. Chiekh Nehma is a Cherif, and thus is a direct descendent of the Prophet Mohammed. A special newspaper publication in honor of the gamou listed this lineage, son to father, from Chiekh Nehma to the Prophet.

Traveling with G. and his family is always interesting. G. is a scholar of middle eastern history and religion; he speaks Arabic, French, and Wolof; and he is comfortable in the presence holy men and religious leaders. G. offers insight and fresh perspective on the expression of Islam in Senegal, a topic about which I am interested.

Attending an official function such as this is a privilege. It does require some patience, particularly for those of us who, by culture and/or profession, mark the passage of time in minutes.

On arrival, we greeted the Cherif, then were then escorted to the apartment of one of his wives, where we received a splendid meal of fish, mutton, and a wide variety of vegetables.

The official ceremony was, for me, a study in prayer, and the practice of Sufism, as the video clips reveal. What is the Cherif doing? I asked one of G.’s sons? What is he doing it for? The Cherif was clearly busy, preoccupied, listening and observing the event, while privately, intently, engaged in prayer. What is this state? What was he after?

Before the Cherif sat a man in a green boubou. Look for him in the video clips. He, too, is busy. Can you see it? What is he doing? What is he up to? Why is he sitting below the Cherif?

This is the practice of Sufism in Senegal: the relationship between disciple and Master, both engaged in a particular form of prayer and meditation, not in retreat, but in the context of their lives.

Links to video:

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